Adventure Photoshoot
Catching the ferry to a wild and rugged Atlantic island for an adventure photoshoot was one of our unexpected highlights of 2020! Here’s how we got on.
Last summer we hooked up with Remain in Light’s Mairéad McDaid and videographer, Ciarán Dunphy to explore Arranmore (Árainn Mhór), a wild and rugged island off the north west of Ireland.
I have been a fan of Mairéad’s photography for years and truth be told, I have tried - without success - to emulate her style, but it cant be done as her photography is truly unique. So, you can imagine how excited we were to set off on an adventure shoot with Mairéad and Ciarán in our favourite part of Ireland, Donegal! Here’s how we got on.
It was a gorgeous summer’s day in August 2020 when we met Mairéad and Ciarán at the harbour of Burtonport, a fishing village in the Gaeltacht. As we made our way to the ferry, I knew we were going to have a day full of craic, even the lads from Arranmore Ferry were on top form.
You can take your car to the island, but we ditched ours in the harbour car park. We climbed aboard the azure blue ferry and got a great spot on the top deck for the 20 minute crossing. Sailing to the island is a wonderful journey as you pass through an archipelago of beautiful islands with great names such as Goat and Duck Island. We crossed the Rutland Sound with the wind in our hair spotting dream houses along the route.
Arranmore is the largest inhabited island of County Donegal, but despite having less than 500 residents, it really punches above its weight. It is a land of scholars, miners, musicians and seafarers and is beautifully summed up by writer, Catherine Doyle in the Storm Keeper’s Island:
“On a clear day on the island, the sea is endless and blue. The longer I look at it, the wider it becomes. I sense it calling to me. I feel its power like a deep-blue thread, binding me to my ancestors, and I embrace it, this quiet kind of magic.”
Here you will find country roads lined with vibrant wildflowers and pristine beaches with crystal clear water for swimming and diving. The island’s rugged coastline is perfect for hiking or kayaking and its idyllic villages are home to the prettiest houses, the cutest post office and some really cool pubs with a lively trad scene. Under normal circumstances there are a number of annual music, comedy and spoken word festivals on the island such as Swell Festival and Mór Music & Arts Trail.
When we disembarked, we had one sight in mind so we set off on foot to Rinrawros Point at the north west corner of the island to visit the iconic Arranmore Lighthouse and famous Old Lighthouse Steps. Following the winding, wildflower-lined Ring Road through the island we drank in the breath taking views of the mainland across the Sound.
Passing a curious monument along the route, we stopped to learn that this picturesque Irish island has been strongly linked to Beaver Island, Lake Michigan for generations. During the great hunger thousands of Irish fled to escape poverty and starvation, setting their sights on America. Many people from Arranmore made their mark on Beaver Island. The Beaver Island Monument on Arranmore is a poignant reminder of the relationship between these two islands.
Donegal’s first lighthouse has been standing on the north west of Arranmore since 1798 and was manned by keepers until fully automated in 1976. The lighthouse’s bright white walls and red and mint green trim make it look like it was plucked from America's north east coast. It is like a little piece of Maine smuggled onto a rugged Irish island. Now an airbnb, you can stay in the former light keeper’s dwellings and find out how it feels to spend a night at the edge of the world
To discover a hidden gem beside the lighthouse, follow the dry stone wall from the red gate in the direction of the sea until you think you can go no further. A beaten path in the cliff leads to iconic steps that connects the headland to the water. If you are feeling brave, traverse down the very steep, unique Old Lighthouse Steps. These amazing steps are carved into the rock and allowed the lighthouse crew to access rescue boats in the waters below. Fortune certainly does favour the brave as your courage is rewarded by watching the swell of the Atlantic crash against the cliff walls sea caves.
After a picnic of cheeses from the wonderful Counter Deli and local craft beers we set off to find a beach for a swim in the crystal clear waters. We headed off the beaten track and hiked the wild and untamed part of the island over to Leabgarrow Beach. After passing through landscapes carpeted in purple heather, we meandered through little villages. A friendly couple enjoying a gin in the garden of their gorgeous cottage raised their glasses to us as we passed by and little children came over to meet Juno.
Mairéad and Ciarán were capturing little moments and adventures along the way.
Initially, we both felt shy - and to be honest, without my armour of make-up and straightened hair, I felt a little awkward -but as soon as Mairéad aimed her camera at us she made us feel as ease.
Mairéad is famed for photographing real moments and emotions as they are happening and she has a very special ability to make you feel yourself and comfortable in front of the lens. Being animal lovers, both Mairéad and Ciarán were amazing with Juno. She loved being papped by them and had a great time hanging out with Ciarán whenever Mairéad needed us for certain shots.
We had so much fun exploring Arranmore with Mairéad and Ciarán. As we headed back across the Rutland Sound, with sea salt drying in our hair after an evening swim, I had that lovely buzz I always had as a child after a great daytrip. Ciarán’s breathtaking footage captures the magic of the day and the island perfectly.
To end the day with a bang, we popped into the cosy Lobster Pot in Burtonport for pints of Guinness and fresh seafood.
2020 was such a unique year and we are delighted to have such amazing photos as a memento of our staycation in Ireland.
