Madeira - Hiking Paradise
If hiking is the new clubbing, Madeira is the new Ibiza. The sub-tropical Portuguese island covered in lush forest and blankets of flowers, is a spectacular place to lace your boots and explore. With steep peaks, cloud inversions and dramatic coastlines, Madeira is a top all-year round hiking destination.
What’s the story, where is Madeira?
Madeira is the largest island of the Portuguese archipelago in the North Atlantic. Closer to Africa than Europe, Madeira benefits from a year round sub-tropical climate making it a vibrant and lush island. Dubbed, the Flower Island due to its blanket of wild and exotic plants, Madeira is an explosion of colour.
Its volcanic landscape lends itself perfectly to hiking, with steep ridges and deep valleys there is no shortage of breathtaking and challenging treks.
The dramatic, rugged Atlantic coastline on the west of the island is great for surfing, whilst the calmer east coast is dotted with perfect swim locations. The Madeirans take sea swimming seriously so you will find an abundance of bathing spots and natural swimming pools along the coast.
The capital, Funchal is a pretty, bustling city with a charming mix of classic Portuguese architecture, whitewashed houses and a vibrant marina. Built on the slopes of a natural amphitheatre on hills that roll into the ocean, it is renowned for its harbour, gardens and wine cellars.
Getting there and getting around
With many major airlines flying directly to Madeira, getting there couldn’t be easier. We flew direct to the island from Dublin with Ryanair and then onwards to Porto at the end of our trip with Easyjet (check out our weekend guide to Porto). Whilst the journey is relatively easy, the landing will certainly wake you up. Hosting one of the world’s most challenging approaches and landings, the airport is a work of engineering genius. Being a volcanic island, there aren’t many flat areas so the runway was built on a platform jutting out over the ocean! Pilots flying to Madeira have to undergo additional training to deal with the cross-winds, but be assured its not as scary as it sounds (epecially if you have ever flown into Belfast’s George Best Airport).
When landing in Cristiano Ronaldo International Airport, taxis are in abundance and really affordable - we grabbed a Bolt cab to our Airbnb in Funchal and it cost €14. Several buses run daily from the airport to Funchal costing around €3.50 each way.
Car hire is also available from the airport. As we didn’t need a car until our second day, we hired one from Enterprise in Funchal instead. The roads throughout the island are well organised and the drivers are respectful. The island is connected via a network of highways and never ending tunnels. Driving through valleys, lush countryside and along the breathtaking coast puts driving in Madeira in a league of its own.
If you don’t fancy driving, many companies offer transfers to and from hiking destinations. We wanted to avoid a circular loop when hiking from Pico do Arieiro to Pico Ruivo so Pico Transfers collected us from our Airbnb at 6am and allowed us 5 hours to complete the hike before driving us back to Funchal! They are so friendly (even at 6am!) and provided tons of advice in advance of the hike - they even give us a little tour of the east of the island on the return drive.
Where we stayed
Being our first visit to Madeira, and having a sneaking suspicion it would not be our one and only trip, we decided to base ourselves this time entirely in Funchal. From homely b&bs and boutique hotels in the Old Town, to modern apartments overlooking the marina, there is a wide choice of accommodation in the city. The big hotels can be found in the west of the city, right on the coast. Check out the Instagrammable NEXT with its retro poolside vibes or, if your budget is endless, step into a world of timeless elegance at Reid’s Palace.
As we wanted to experience the city as a local, we opted for a traditional house in a residential part of the Old Town. With its baby blue exterior, terracotta roof tiles and sea views from the main bedroom, we instantly fell in love with Vintage House. Being so close to the sea we loved strolling down to Complexo Balnear da Barreirinha in the morning for a swim or to Barreirinha Bar for Aperols in the evening on our way to dinner. With a designated work space and strong WIFI, this little blue house is the perfect base for digital nomads - being on holiday we opted to snooze in the hammock over screen time.
If you want an unique stay outside the capital, check into a yurt or tepee at Hidden Paradise, an eco glamping site by the sea or slide into the simple life at Faja dos Padres, a handful of beach front fisherman’s cottages on an organic farm that is only accessible by boat or cable car. If wine is your drink of choice, you can stay on a vineyard in one of Terra Bona’s spectacular Villas (for 10% of your stay use code 2023 when booking). These are all earmarked for our next trip!
Day 1 - Base Camp
Awaking early after arriving late the night before, we were eager to see the Old Town in daylight. We grabbed our swimming togs and strolled down to Complexo Balnear da Barreirinha for a swim. With its retro vibes and choice of entrance points to the sea, this bathing spot is a hit with locals and the remote working crowd. After a relaxed morning of swimming and lazing around in the sun, we had a simple but delicious breakfast in the Complexo’s little seaside cafe.
Keen to use our one hike-free day on the island exploring Funchal, we took the city’s cable car up the steep ascent to the hilltop neighbourhood of Monte (psst! if you see at least two cruise ships docked in the harbour be prepared to queue or opt for a quieter day.) Cruising over orange rooftops and mini banana farms with the Atlantic coming into clear view, the cable car is a great way to see the whole city. We headed straight to Local Shop for lunch and a glass of local wine on their gorgeous balcony overlooking the lush valley before exploring the Botanical Gardens. If you don’t want to take the cable car back, you can prepare your legs for the impeding hikes by walking down to the Old Town, but if fancy a journey with a difference, hop into a traditional basket sledge. The Monte Toboggan dates back to the early 19th century when it was used as transport by local residents who wanted to travel quickly from Monte to Funchal.
Back in the Old Town we headed to Mercado dos Lavradores for farm fresh regional produce and off-the-boat seafood (be sure to try black scabbardfish) before cooling off at seaside cocktail bar, Barreirinha Bar.
For dinner head to Three Houses for small, sharing plates of fish tacos and zesty ceviche in their gorgeous boho styled restaurant then up to the rooftop bar afterwards for margaritas.
Day 2 - Into the West
After collecting our car we headed west and stopped in Prazeres for breakfast at XS Cafe. Owned by architects who run the studio next door, this café with its ply wood interior and focus on speciality coffee was not what we expected to find in a sleepy, remote part of the island. The coffee is great and food is delicious - they have something for everyone including amazing vegan treats.
Our first hike of the trip took us inland to Rabaçal. We choose Levada das 25 Fontes to get us started as it’s a moderately challenging route (you don’t want peak too soon, right?) Being one of the most popular hiking trails on the island it can get busy so plan to start early in the day. No guide is needed for Levada das 25 Fontes as the route is clear. Starting at the top of the Ribeira da Janela Valley, take in the panoramic landscapes before starting the descent into the gorge through a lush, laurel forest. The route follows a system of water channels called levadas, which run through the forest. The levadas were designed to distribute water from the north to the south of the island and are one of Madeira’s most famous attractions. The main attraction on this hike however, is the 25 Fontes Waterfall - don’t let SM images lead you to think that this is a tranquil spot for a dip - it gets very crowded and is a hotspot for photographers - that said it is a beautiful place to stop and catch your breath. If you have time before you start the ascent (it is tough especially in the midday heat) go to Rabaçal Nature Spot Cafe for lunch or a cool down.
Distance: 11 km round trip
Difficulty: Moderate
Duration: 3 hours
Start/End: Rabaçal (E.R. 105)
Max. Altitude: 1288 m
Dying for a dip after hiking in the heat, we headed northwest to the charming village of Porto Moniz and straight to the volcanic rock pools. Filled with the rising tide, these rock pools provide a safe haven for swimming by offering protection against the swell of the Atlantic. A few euro gets you entrance to the lava pools with access to changing facilities and lockers for your kit.
Further along the coast we hit Seixal, a small village nestled between cliffs and the Atlantic known for its unique beach. With soft, chocolate brown sand and a little waterfall, it’s no wonder Seixal beach has been voted one of the best beaches in Europe. There is also a safe natural swimming pool at the other side of the harbour. Here we found clube Naval do Seixal , a laid-back, nostalgic restaurant with spectacular oceanfront views serving local specialities such as lapas and octopus.
Day 3 - Sunrise and Shine
Waking up before day break on holiday is a killer, but when you get to watch the sun rise over Ponta de São Lourenço it is worth the sleepy start. Situated on the most eastern side of the island, this is the perfect spot for a sunrise hike.
Vereda da Ponta de São Lourenço (PR8 Trail) is an easy to moderate hike and no guide is needed as there is one route to end of the peninsula and one route back. That said, care needs to be taken and good boots are a must as the terrain is uneven and very rough with steep drops down to the sea. This coastal hike was completely different from Levada das 25 Fontes, with dramatic cliffs and the Atlantic in every direction. We loved this trail. Majestic red and black lava-sea stacks pepper the landscape and blankets of echium add pops of colour to the otherwise dusty peninsula. After side-stepping along the cliff tops, a tiny oasis comes into view. A palm grove housing Casa do Sarinha offers respite and a chance to grab breakfast and a coffee with killer views. The opening times vary as the staff and stock come via boat so, if you are hiking early in the day bring a back-up picnic in case.
Close to the café is a brilliant swimming spot. Cais do Sardinha is a secluded inlet with a little pebbled beach and a pier. The water was calm and pristine and the perfect place for a peaceful swim to cool down halfway along the trail.
The PR8 trail starts in a large car park in the Madeira Natural Park. Parking costs only €1 and is payable by scanning the QR code on the information board at the start of the trail. We recommend that you get there early - when we arrived at 7.30am the place was empty but by the time we returned, cars were struggling to find a space to park, plus your future self will thank you for the early alarm when you catch a gorgeous sunrise.
Distance: 9 km round trip
Difficulty: Easy to moderate
Duration: 3-4 hours (depending on whether you stop for a swim)
Start/End: Baía d'Abra
Max. Altitude: 126 m
A relaxed lunch is only a few minutes drive away. Nestled in the crook of a small cove on a beautiful black-sand beach Prainha Beach-Cafe conjures up 1950s summer vibes. Painted the colour of sunshine and surrounded by palms, this family run joint with beach-side tables is a friendly spot for lunch. Take a well deserved rest and spend the afternoon on the beach.
Back in Funchal, we spruced ourselves up and headed to Akua for a wonderful dining experience. Start with the oysters and sit at the counter watching as the chefs create dishes such as gorgeous tuna cones and grouper carpaccio.
Day 4 - Head in the Clouds
As they say, save the best for last and boy did we! Pico do Arieiro to Pico Ruivo is one of the most challenging, but rewarding hikes we have ever undertaken. We started early on our last day when Pico Transfers collected us from our Airbnb at 6am and started the ascent up the windy roads to Miradouro do Juncal, arguably one of the best sunrise viewpoints in Europe. Being 1800m up, a blanket of clouds hoovered beneath the peak as the sun made her appearance. People sat quietly watching the day begin, some in meditation, others lowly chatting about the hike ahead, creating a real ‘collective’ atmosphere. As the sky started to brighten, we headed for the peak of Pico do Arieiro marking the beginning of the trail. Over the next few hours we traversed steep ridges, steer drops, through tunnels in the cliffs and up so many (yip!) sets of ladders until we reached the highest peak in Madeira (and third highest in Portugal), Pico Ruivo.
The summit of Pico Ruivo offers spectacular 360-degree views of the island so build time into your itinerary to enjoy it before making your way to Achada do Teixeira for a much deserved lunch at the Mountain Spot, or maybe sit a little longer at the top if you are doing the circular route and heading back to Pico do Arieriro.
We recommend layering up, wear warm clothes for the beginning of the hike and strip off as the sun continues to rise in the sky. Good hiking boots are a must. The hike to Pico Ruivo is not for the faint of heart but it is worth every step.
Distance: 11 km (one way)
Difficulty: Moderate to Difficult
Duration: 3-4 hours
Start/End: Pico do Arieiro / Achada do Teixeira
Max. Altitude: 1,862 m
We were collected from Achada do Teixeira by Kevin from Pico Transfers who give us a tour of the east of the island including the picturesque village of Santana famed for its A-Framed thatched palheiros cottages before heading back to Funchal for a much-needed nap.
Refreshed after a disco-nap, we were ready to spend our final evening sailing around the coast with Terra Bona Wines. Marco and Maria offer private sunset wine tasting tours from their little yacht. This warm, friendly Madeiran couple bought an abandoned vineyard almost 10 years ago and set about making organic wine with a strong focus on sustainability. Setting sail from Funchal Marina, we were treated to several Terrabona wines as well as a picnic of delicious, wholesome food prepared by Maria. We sailed with Marco and Maria for over 3 hours, getting a different perspective of the island and arriving back in the city to a stunning sunset dreaming about our return to the island.
