48 Hours in Porto - Cidade Invicta
Porto, Lisbon’s cool little sister, is bursting with charm and waiting to be explored. Nicknamed ‘Cidade Invicta’ this soulful city with its edgy street art, hospitable locals and fresh seafood has become a top travel destination. With so much to see and do in this vibrant city, a weekend in Porto is an unforgettable experience.
What’s the story, where is Porto?
Porto, the capital of Northern Portugal, is where the mighty Douro River meets the Atlantic. This enchanting city, known for its charming old town, world-renowned wine, and buzzing nightlife scene has become a top destination for visitors from around the globe. With its winding cobbled streets, colourful buildings, and stunning views of the Douro it is a vibrant place to explore.
Explore the historic centre, a UNESCO World Heritage Site that boasts an abundance of impressive architecture, including the grand Porto Cathedral and the stunning São Bento train station, with its iconic blue and white azulejo tiles. Take a stroll down the lively Rua das Flores, a charming street lined with cafes, shops, and colourful tiled facades.
Next up, a visit to the port wine cellars is a must. Located across the river in Vila Nova de Gaia, these cellars offer tastings and tours of their world-famous wines, with stunning views of the city and river below.
For a bit of relaxation, head to the Jardins do Palácio de Cristal, a beautiful park with stunning gardens and walking trails, as well as breath taking views of the Douro River and the city or plan a beach escape to Foz do Douro along the coast.
In the evening, check out Porto's buzzing nightlife, with a diverse array of bars, clubs, and live music venues to suit any taste. Whether you're in the mood for an intimate wine bar or a lively club, Porto has something for everyone.
Getting Around
Getting around couldn’t be easier, but Porto is best explored on foot. With public art everywhere, from azulejos (hand-painted tiles) glamming up the train station to street art found in every corner - you won’t want to miss a thing. Find yourself walking through the cool neighbourhoods of Cedofeita and neighbouring Miragaia, popping into one-of-a-kind local shops and galleries or winding through the narrow cobblestoned streets of charming Ribeira, catching a ray of sun as it lights-up a medieval lane. Catch your breath as the dramatic Dom Luis Bridge arching over the river suddenly comes into view or take time-out and stroll around the beautiful grounds of the Serralves Museum or Parque da Cidade.
If you prefer a quicker way to get around the city or want to take a trip slightly further afield, download the Bolt App, as taxis are in abundance and are very affordable.
Where should I stay?
With many neighbourhoods to choose from, there is no shortage of great places to base yourself. We opted for Bombarda, Porto’s art district. Just a short stroll to the historic centre and the waterside, this bohemian neighbourhood has its own distinct personality. With streets lined with galleries, second-hand shops and cool cafés, Bombarda is the city’s creative centre.
Going on a tip-off from a good friend (thank you, Jenny) we stayed in ROSA ET AL Townhouse, a stunning six bedroom boutique hotel in the heart of Bombarda. We were made to feel welcome even before we set foot in Porto. Days before our arrival, the team at ROSA ET AL started chatting with us over WhatsApp and helped us tailor an in-room spa treatment for our first afternoon. Having arrived in Porto fresh from a hiking trip in Madeira (check out our guide to the island) therapists, Thelma and Paul helped us unwind and got us ready for a weekend exploring the city.
If you like mid-century design, this is the place for you. Choose from one of the beautiful rooms inside the hotel or opt for the garden pavilion suite. We stayed in the King Grand Deluxe Garden Suite, a third floor room overlooking the hotel’s vibrant garden that is an explosion of colour and aromas - the perfect place for an afternoon cocktail.
Where to….
Eat
Brunch
Honestly, even if I wasn’t staying here, I would make a special trip to ROSA ET AL for brunch. The unique menu is a homage to honest, slow food made with seasonal ingredients gathered from local suppliers. The folks at ROSA ET AL take good food and coffee seriously, but don’t just take my word for it, Time Out crowned them ‘the specialists in brunch.’
Lunch
We stumbled upon Genuíno on our first afternoon and immediately made a reservation for lunch the following day. Opened in 2022, this natural wine-bar has already made a big impression on the city. Nestled in Cedofeita, the husband and wife team serve simple, delicious food paired with an impressive wine list (four suggested wines by the glass that change on a weekly basis and over 40 by the bottle) and artisan vermouths. If the food and cocktails don’t have you coming back, the warmth of front-of-house owner, Gustavo will.
Plant-Based
With its paired back interior, friendly service and plant based take on ‘KFC,’ Outra Espécie is a great spot for vegetarians, vegans and inquisitive eaters. We devoured the ‘Tofummus’ and ‘Eggplant Katsu Sambo’ and got overly excited about the organic wine list.
Fine Dining
Michelin starred Euskalduna Studio is an intimate space in the style of a typical Japanese “izakaya.” Pull up a seat at the counter and watch every dish being prepared while engaging with the charismatic chefs. The tasting menu, showcasing chef Vasco Coelho Santos’s passion for incorporating Portuguese ingredients into Japanese cuisine, will leave a lasting impression.
Drink
Coffee
I’ll not lie, coffee shops are the first thing we Google when planning a trip to a new city and we were delighted to find that there is no shortage of great cafes in Porto! Having slowly but surely become a destination for coffee lovers over the last decade, independent roasters and cafes have popped up over the city . Our stand-out was Época with its paired-back interior and simple menu, they brew the smoothest pour over (be prepared to wait for a seat, it’s worth it.) Also, don’t miss Early with its gorgeous mid-century interior.
Port
When in Porto! Take a tour of the history of Port and the Douro Valley at one of the many cellars across the river in Vila Nova de Gaia. These cellars offer tastings and tours of their world-famous wines, with stunning views of the city and river below. We recommend Cálem for an interactive tour of one of the oldest Port caves or, for a more intimate experience, head to family-owned Poças.
Cocktails with a View
Perched on a hilltop in Vila Nova de Gaiade, Graham’s Lodge offers spectacular views of the Douro River and the magnificent Ponte de Dom Luis I. Despite being one of the oldest cellars in the country, Graham’s has a fresh and contemporary take on serving Port -the cocktail menu is fun and adventurous. Grab a table on the terrace and take in the wonderful view over the River with a glass of port aged just metres away and be sure to reserve a table in Vinum which brings together dishes of the Douro, Trás-os-Montes, the Minho, and the Atlantic in a stunning setting.
Wine
When a vineyard owner recommends a wine bar you know you have a great tip. Marco, owner of Terrabona wines, told us there is only one place in Porto for wine! Prova wine bar and shop is an intimate space owned by creative sommelier, Diogo who has cultivated a cosy, lively atmosphere whilst showcasing the best Portuguese wines.
Street Beers
Salsa beats and cold beers are served up from the garage of a colourful local’s home on Rua de São João, just off Ribeira Square. Grab a couple of beers, head down to the waterfront and soak up the buzz whilst street performers entertain the crowds along the banks of the Douro.
Sundowners with Locals
Grab a couple of beers from nearby bottle shop, Casa Triunfo and head to Passeio das Virtudes during golden hour. We discovered this spot on Google maps (being marked “Free Sunset” it instantly grabbed our attention) and it was one of the highlights of our visit. A grassy area perched above the river, it is popular with locals meeting-up for sundowners. There is a great atmosphere here as the sun sets over the city.
Turn Over a New Leaf
Internationally renowned as one of the most beautiful bookstores in the world, Livraria Lello is worth a visit - but only during quiet times! Popular with book lovers and Harry Potter fans (the store is hailed as ex-Porto resident, J.K. Rowling’s inspiration for both the Grand Staircase at Hogwarts, and the Flourish and Blotts book shop in Diagon Alley) this magnificent store gets rammed and it kind of ruins the enjoyment of perusing the shelves and admiring the majestic Art Nouveau interior with its breath-taking crimson staircase. My recommendation is to plan your trip to Livraria Lello early morning or towards the end of the day. Tickets can be pre-purchased online but still be prepared to queue outside.
Get Cultured
Pastel pink pops against the blue sky at Serralves. This stunning estate has it all, from the foremost museum for contemporary art in Portugal, to the House of Cinema and a calming park of formal gardens, woodlands, and a traditional farm all harmoniously interconnected. My favourite part of Serralves is the 1930’s pink Art Deco Villa, once home to a Count, it now houses an impressive collection of Miró’s works.
Escape to the Coast
Although it’s known mainly for its famous river, Porto can also boast about its beautiful beaches. From the bustling promenade of Praia dos Ingleses in Foz do Douro, to surfing beaches and Blue Flag spots further afield, the city enjoys easy access to the coast.
