Alpe d'Huez - Beginner’s Guide to Skiing
There's nothing quite like hitting the slopes and feeling the rush of cold air on your face as you glide down a mountain. A ski holiday offers the perfect combination of adventure, relaxation and breathtaking scenery. Whether you're a seasoned pro or a complete beginner (like me!) there's something for everyone. From stunning mountain views to cosy après-ski, this is a must-do for any winter adventurer. So grab your gear, hit the slopes and check out my guide to Alpe d’Huez.
What’s the story, where is Alpe d’Huez and why is it the resort for me?
Nicknamed ‘the island in the sun’ Alpe d’Huez is one of Europe's premier skiing resorts. Perched 1,120m high in the French Alps, the resort gets on average 300 days of sunshine and has 250km of ski runs!
There’s something for skiers of all levels here. As a complete newbie, I loved how ‘beginner friendly’ ADH is, with a great bunny slope and lots of gentle green runs, I found it possible to get to grips with the sport. It is also home to the famous ‘Tunnel’ and the longest black ski run in Europe - the Sarenne - which is over 16km long and has an elevation drop of 1,330 meters. The rest of our group being experienced skiers and snow boarders had a ball ripping up and bombing down the endless pistes.
In addition to skiing, ADH offers a range of other winter activities, including snow yoga, ice skating, and even the chance to go on a dog sled ride. Importantly, there are plenty of après-ski options, with a great choice of bars, restaurants, and cafes to choose from. And for those who want to relax at the end of the day, the resort has a number of spas and wellness centres where so you can unwind and recharge.
Getting there
Several airlines have frequent flights to Grenoble or Geneva, from either airport you can get an airport transfer to Alpe d’Huez. We flew direct from Dublin to Grenoble with Ryanair and booked a transfer with Ben’s Bus who time their departures with flight arrivals and took just over an hour.
Where we stayed
With breath-taking mountain views and friendly staff, Pic Blanc was the perfect hotel and base for our trip. Located in the heart of Alpe d’Huez, this chalet styled hotel is only 50m from the slopes and a short walk into the centre of the resort. Altitude Sports offer direct ski -hire in the hotel and there is a great locker-room, complete with boot warmers, where we securely stored our gear each night. Altitude Sports also have sister branches dotted around the resort in case you need any assistance during the day.
After a day on the slopes, book into the Pure Altitude Spa for a relaxing treatment or a dip in the pool.
The Sarenne isnt for me (yet) so how can I get a feel for the slopes?
As a complete beginner, I took to the dry slope in Dublin before heading to France which whet my appetite and give me a little more confidence so I could get really excited for the trip. During our first morning in ADH, I had a private lesion with an experienced instructor, booked through ESI. Fredi made my first time on the snow fun and he really built up my confidence, teaching me how to use the ski-lifts and snow plough down gentle green runs. If I had my time again, I would join a ski school for the entire trip as it would be an excellent opportunity to meet new people and take on more challenging runs. Take this advice and check out ESI or ESF for group lessons.
What is there to do off the slopes?
ADH offers a range of other winter activities besides skiing and snowboarding, from snow shoeing to paragliding. The village has a huge ice skating rink and a heated outdoor swimming pool with views to die for.
My favourite off-piste afternoon was when I joined Laura’s snow yoga class. A small group met near Les Bergers and strolled into the mountains where Laura guided us through an outdoor vinyasa flow. With our mats rolled out on the snow, Laura’s ‘studio’ had the most dramatic backdrop. Surrounded by mountain peaks, glistening slopes and snow-laden forests, the class was serene and magical. Laura is currently on maternity leave, but you can check out her schedule here when she returns next winter.
Leanne, our adrenaline junkie, took to the air and paraglided from the summit of Signal (with Alpe Sports Loisirs) taking in the stunning landscape as she floated back to earth and landed like a pro!
Après-ski
There is no shortage of great bars, restaurants or cafes for Après-ski, but here’s a round-up of our faves:-
No French skiing holiday would be complete without an altitude party and a couple of Aperols at La Folie Douce.
Half way down Chez Roger grab a coffee, pull up a deckchair and soak up the views and relaxed atmosphere at Le spot.
The best part of my day was meeting the guys for lunch and a beer and where better than on the side of a mountain! The sun soaked terrace of La Plage des Neiges was by far our favourite lunch spot. A mountain restaurant with access for all levels of skier this unique setting boasts a breath-taking view of the resort and a delicious menu.
Like many people, cheese ‘raclettes’ my world (sorry) and one of the cosiest nights out we had was at Au Montagnard, an ADH institution famed for its fondue and raclette dishes.
If you are looking for an excuse to get dressed up, head to fine dining restaurant Le Génépi and/or L'Améthyste.
For a great atmosphere and TexMex grub (vegan options available) check out Smithys Tavern.
My absolute favourite place in the village is La Bamboche; a cool, laid back natural wine bar and eco-shop that serves up amazing woodfired pizza. A close second is Vins Marcon Huez, a friendly wine shop on the main street -pull up at stool at a giant wine cask outside and enjoy a glass of champagne whilst people watching.
For beers with atmosphere and live music find yourself lost in Les Caves, Underground Bar or Sphere.
