New Year in West Cork
New Years Eve, love it or hate it, is a time for reflection on the year that has been and an opportunity to start planning the future. Gone are the days when I loved to spend NYE at clubs in the city, preferring now to be cosied up along Ireland’s Atlantic coast to unplug and catch my breath. This year we decided to ring in 2023 by returning to the rugged Sheep Head’s Peninsula for ocean views, sea food and some island hopping.
From Kinsale to Dursey Island, West Cork is the most southern section of the Wild Atlantic Way. Dubbed “the Mediterranean of Ireland,” it has lush landscape different from the rest of the Country. With colourful villages and breath-taking peninsulas, outstanding restaurants and Ireland’s only cable car, West Cork is one of the last bastions of ‘old Ireland.’
Nature sets the pace in this beautiful corner of Ireland so it is best enjoyed unrushed. If possible stretch a one-off visit to a week (or more) or if repeat trips are possible, break them into sections so you can get the most of out each part of this magical slice of the Wild Atlantic Way.
Getting there
Getting to West Cork is not complicated, no matter your origin or how you choose to travel.
By air
Several airlines have frequent flights directly into Cork City (there are also connecting flights from Shannon and Dublin Airports, too) and plenty of car hire options at the airport.
By land
Driving through the winding roads of West Cork is the most beautiful way to get there. Cars can be hired from Cork Airport, Cork Ferryport or the Cork City Railway Station for those visiting from outside of Ireland. The best option for public transport is Bus Éireann, which provides services throughout the country with direct West Cork connections including the towns Baltimore and Skibbereen.
If travelling from Dublin, car is the best way to get there. Most of the four hour journey is done by motorway with lots of “service” stops.
By water
Cork city can be reached by Brittany Ferries, which travel to the Ringaskiddy Ferry Terminal at the Port of Cork from France. Irish Ferries and the Stena Line also provide services from Rosslare and Dublin, with ferries coming from Wales.
Where we stayed
With such a vast expanse of beautiful countryside and coastline, choosing a base in West Coast can be tricky, but this time we decided to return to Sheep’s Head. Having spent the summer on this unspolit penninsula in 2020, we were keen to know what it would be like in winter. On our previous trip we stayed at Hidden Brooks (see our write up here) which is perfect for larger groups, but for this trip there was only one place we wanted! Laharandota, The Artist’s Studio is a stylish restored farmhouse that boasts an outdoor pool and views of Dunmanus Bay and Mizen Head.
Where we ate and drank
For good pub food, a lively atmophere and stunning views head to Arundels by the Pier, Ahakista (downstairs is dog friendly)
Freshly caught catch of the day and great pints of Guinness are served by the sea in O’Suillvans, Crookhaven (dog friendly)
Great craic and nightly music sessions at Eileen’s Bar, Kilcrohane.
Fans of travel writer and comedian, Pete McCarthy will be besides themselves at MacCarthy’s Bar, Castletownbere (dog Friendly)
Whilst it was closed for the winter during this particular trip, no article about West Cork is complete without mentioning Graham Norton’s ‘local’, The Tin Pub, Ahakista. This charming pub is open during the summer months and is not to be missed for the craic and sea-side beer garden (dog friendly)
Previously the home of American painter Frank Russell, the Artist’s Studio and the Cottage next door (suitable for larger parties) have recently been lovingly restored by its new owner, Julie. Named after a nearby lough, ‘Laharandota’ is the perfect spot to immerse yourself in West Cork’s almighty beauty. Nestled in the unspoilt landscape of the south-western coastline on Sheep’s Head Peninsula, the uninterrupted sea views from the Artist’s Studio over Dunmanus Bay are breath-taking. The Studio is surrounded by a peaceful garden complete with swimming pool and babbling brook! It is a cosy and relaxing space and has everything you need for a few days exploring the area.
Crookhaven
One of the great things about revisiting an old favourite is getting to the nooks and crannies that were missed before. Crookhaven, a sleepy, but colourful fishing village is about as far south-west as you can go in Ireland without getting wet. On our last visit to Mizen Head peninsula we were busy checking out the signal station with its iconic foot bridge (not for the faint hearted) and the spectacular beach at Barleycove, that we ran out of time and missed Crookhaven. On New Year’s Eve, we jumped in the car and took in the stunning landscape as we drove to the picturesque village at the end of the road. Crookhaven is a sheltered harbour where brightly-coloured boats bob at anchor and tables and chairs spill from the pubs onto the quayside.
Don’t miss the warm welcome at the award-winning O’Sullivan’s Bar. This dog-friendly, traditional pub serves a classic crab sandwich, delicious chowder and a great pint of Guinness. Grab a table inside if its nippy or by the sea edge to drink in the views.
After lunch, park up at Lackenakea Bay Beach just outside the village and enjoy a beautiful coastal stroll to Chimney Cove, a golden sand beach which offers views across to Barley Cove Beach.
Bere Island
At the entrance to the magnificent Bantry Bay, guarding the harbour of Berehaven, lies the beautiful Bere Island. Hop on the ferry as a foot passanger or bring the car across. Bere Island Ferries sail frequently, every day of the year, between Castletownbere and Oilean na gCaorach at the west end of Bere Island. Murphy’s Ferry sails between Rerrin Village on the east end of the island to the Pontoon, about 2km east of Castletownbere.
Explore this small, inhabited island and its gorgeous natural environment which is protected by a vibrant island community. Hike to Ardnakinna lighthouse along the Beara Way, jump in for a swim or head out on a sea safari. Be aware that the Beara Way does not permit dogs. We asked a local farmer and were reassured that so long as Juno remained on her lead there would be no problem. Please be mindful and respectful of locals and livestock on the island.
Whatever you get up to on the island, don’t miss a stop-off at MacCarthy’s Bar back on the mainland. This welcoming, dog friendly bar in Castletownbere was made famous by writer and comedian, Pete McCarthy who, in his travels, held one rule…never pass a bar that has your name on it!
